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South America

Alpinism meets photography in Perú's Cordillera Blanca

An brief photo essay contemplating the meaning of magical moments captured forever.

By
Sam Williams
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View of Nevado del Pisco - Peru
Cloud clears to reveal the summit and upper reachers of Nevado del Pisco (5,752m) in the central western section of the Cordillera Blanca, not far from Perú highest mountain, Huascaran. An ascent is actually relatively straightforward, and if undertaken with a guide, this is a good first high altitude climb for those developing their mountaineering skillset. Together with a beautiful high meadow for a basecamp (or a mountain hut if preferred), the summit and much of the climb offers truly stunning views.

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A group of climbers on Yanapaqcha - Peru
A climbing team of four seen traversing the north western ridge of Yanapaqcha (5,460m). This photo was taken from near the summit not long after sunrise. The difference in temperature between the light and dark sides of the mountain is difficult to underestimate, with the first touch of sunlight a real moment of bliss for the alpinist (after the long hard, cold hours of climbing through the early hours). This is another great mountain for those beginning to test out more technical skills on snow and ice. Basecamp is also only 2-3 hours from the road, which is a real joy for the lazy climber!

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View of Chacraraju - Peru
The double peaks of Chacraraju (6,108m) seen above the immense walls of the mountain's southern face. Legend has it that this extremely difficult climb continues to this day to house the corpse of a climber whose body has gradually been enveloped by the ice near the summit. Whether or not that myth is true, few people have ever climbed this mountain and it is considered an extremely dangerous proposition even for the most experienced alpinists. Nevertheless, every summer hundreds of intrepid travellers stand in awe beneath it when they visit the famous Laguna 69.

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Man hiking in Cordillera Blanca - Peru
Ever wondered what a big white mountain looks like once it's lost all it's white? This scarred monolith is reminiscent of many in the Cordillera Blanca, with the area seeing a dramatic receding of glaciers in the past decade alone. Perú is home to 70% of the world's tropical glaciers, with many mountains revered by the people as life-giving providers of fresh water. Global warming is obviously threatening this in a direct way, with increasingly dangerous consequences for the towns and villages in the valleys below, as well as those further downstream.

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White van with view of Huandoy - Peru
The four gigantic peaks of the Huandoy (to the left, at a maximum height of 6,395m) and Nevado del Pisco (to the right, at 5,752m) seen from KM93 on one of the few motorable passes over the Cordillera Blanca. There are few better feelings than being dropped off high in the mountains with a group of friends and a plan to climb multiple peaks over several days; especially with clear blue skies over head. If you continue on this road from west to east, you will pass through a tunnel high on the mountain, which is the effectively the highest point between the vast deserts and sand dunes of western Peru and the even vaster Amazon rainforest on the other side. The mighty Andes are the spine that stands between the two.

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Four peaks of Huandoy mountain range - Peru
The four huge peaks on Huandoy (6,395m) seen from the east.

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Hiker with view of Yanapaqcha - Peru
The west face of Yanapaqcha (5,460m) seen from the approach to advanced base camp. In the few years I've climbed this mountain, I've witnessed significant change to the size and shape of the glacier flowing down the mountainside. Needless to say, it is retreating rapidly but it is also shocking to me just how much the entire mountain seems to change shape each year. These huge geographic features, formed over hundreds of millions of years, really do not stop moving.

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View over Cordillera Blanca - Peru
Looking northwards from the summit of Vallunaraju (5,686m) as the sunrises in the east.

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View of Llanganuco valley - Peru
The wonderful Llanganuco valley seen from high on the road to the east looking west over the two lagoons. Above the huge cliffs on each side of the road and the lakes are two of Perú's highest mountains. Huascaran Norte to the left and Huandoy to the right. This is the road in for a number of extraordinary climbs and trekking routes.
Art
Peru
Travel
Destinations
Mindfulness
Photography
Mountains
Film & Photography
Mountain Climbing

Sam Williams

A beyond-profit project manager, community builder and social entrepreneur, Sam shares stories about mountains, climbing, nature connection, wilderness, rewilding, deep ecology, and the meaning of adventure in a more-than-human world. He is currently working on a series entitled The Mountains are Gods exploring local and indigenous stories of sacred, living mountains. To find out more visit Reflexive Ecology. You can also find him on LinkedIn and Instagram.

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PEAKS & PUEBLOS
Ethically-sourced clothing inspired by the Andes
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PEAKS & PUEBLOS
Ethically-sourced clothing inspired by the Andes
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