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Taking on the Salkantay trek, Perú: a photo essay

Capturing the wild beauty of one of Perú’s epic treks to the ancient Incan citadel of Machu Picchu.

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With this article about the 5-day Salkantay Trek in Perú, I want to share the experience from the eyes of others; from my friends and fellow trekkers. I want you to see what the people who were just as dirty, sweaty, and hangry as me thought of the trek and what they captured with their photos over five glorious days of exploration. 

The Salkantay Crew

Salkantay is the Inca Trail’s lesser-known, longer, little cousin. It’s a collection of varying microclimates that wind together over 70 kilometers, offering visitors the chance to arrive at Machu Picchu thoroughly enmeshed in the diverse nature of Peru. This past October, five of us decided to embark on the trek. Tori, Paul, and me (Maria) shared our photos to give you a glimpse of the magic of Peru. 

Tori is an absolute gem of a human, whip-smart, and endlessly kind. She brings groups together effortlessly and fosters connection among diverse people by making them feel heard. In her many lives, she has been a nurse, a Miami resident, a W-trek finisher, and a newly minted dive master. I’ve never met someone who can pull themselves back from hardship or tough spots more quickly, and I just genuinely admire her approach to life. Perhaps most importantly, she is always up for any adventure!

Paul is, without a doubt, the best photographer among us, and the most creative. He’s a trail running master and never still, spearheading a myriad of businesses, including a Christmas tree business called St. Nicks in Maine, a Nordic spa retreat, and a lifestyle photography brand. He’s the real-life version of a Hallmark movie protagonist. I don’t think you’ll ever meet someone as energetic or genuine; he is an absolute delight to be around. Throughout our trek, Paul was awed by the snow-capped peak of Salkantay and said it was hands down his favorite part of the trek. 

Me (Maria), associate editor at Wildside Journeys, lover of endless walks, aspiring writer, shameless snack seeker, and daydreamer. I have spent the last four years traveling full time, exploring and adventuring on multiple continents, and writing about it when I remember to rest. 

Day 1: Straight Up to Humantay 

The Salkantay trek is difficult, yet super accessible to most well-acclimatized hikers. The first day was undoubtedly the hardest. We climbed straight up a rocky, gravely mountain side to the towering Humantay Lake which sits at 17,956 feet  (5,473 meters). It was a stunning glacial lake, but when we arrived the glacier behind it was somewhat obscured by thick clouds and rain. Since the weather was not cooperating and we were freezing standing still, we trekked somewhat quickly up the sheer cliff face sheltering the lake to stay warm, which was both stunning and terrifying, with steep drops on either side of the trail. 

Overlooking Humantay lake from the rocky cliffside
Humantay was where I captured one of my favorite photos of the trek; Tori, overlooking Humantay lake from the rocky cliffside. She was calm, staring over the edge of a terrifying drop while I forced myself to stay upright, hands and knees shaking, and my heart beating a million miles a minute. I loved the scale, and Tori looked so serene, basking in the glow of such a majestic, moody place. Photo: Maria Ranallo.

People standing in front of lake Humantay
In between bouts of rain, Lake Humantay is where we also took our first official group photo. When your tour tells you to prepare for all weather in the mountains, do not skimp on the warm layers or the rain gear, both of which we used for large portions of the hike. Photo: Paul Corgan.

People resting - Salkantay trek
There is nothing like a post-hike lie down in a field. We snacked on oreos, talked for a bit, and then promptly fell asleep before dinner. Photo: Maria Ranallo.

Day 2: Climbing Through Salkantay Pass 

Every morning, the amazing team of guides would wake us up with coca tea, no matter the weather or the hour. It helps to get you going knowing that your hot tea will not stay hot and other people are waiting on you to begin the climb through the pass. In this case, the Salkantay Pass reaches a breathtaking height of 4,600 meters (15,000ft.) There is something so magical and surreal about standing beside a towering, jagged, and unforgiving peak. You feel accomplished for climbing so high and so far, yet very small and very aware of your mortality at the same time. Nature is unforgiving, but being in nature is the truest form of freedom precisely because it’s raw, stark, and powerful. Standing by Salkantay I felt so peaceful and unattached from the modern world.

People on horseback - Salkantay trek
When climbing through the pass, you have the option to take a horse to the top. It’s not for the faint of heart as the horses traverse the narrow, rocky paths! Photo: Paul Corgan.

Salkantay mountain
The backdrop of Salkantay makes for the best photos. When the clouds parted to reveal the peak every once in a while it was breathtaking. Photo: Paul Corgan.

Two people - Salkantay trek
Maria and Tori. Tori and I will also be doing the ten-day Mt. Blanc circuit this summer. This was just the appetizer! Photo: Tori Hegarty.

Day 3: On to the Jungle

After the pass, we descended through rainforests and jungle, shedding layers as the moisture in the air increased and the temperature steadily rose. The switch happened almost imperceptibly as green plants started to replace the golden, sandy rocks we had been sliding down, and the air thickened with moisture and heat. Finally, the mosquitos arrived to feast and we realized that everything had changed. It was incredible to witness even just a few of Peru’s one hundred and fifty microclimates.

Crossing river - Salkantay trek
Most of Paul’s favorite photos highlight the stark changes in the environment we traversed and how thrilling it was to witness such diverse ecosystems. Photo: Paul Corgan.

Jungle and river - Salkantay trek
It was about now that we all started to realize that the next few days would be very different from the first two in an alpine environment and climbing mountain passes. Photo: Tori Hegarty.

Day 4: Oh, Look, Another Climb

When you’re trekking, nothing ever seems flat. And, just when you think you’ve reached the easy bits, you most likely have just entered a grueling climb. Sure enough, we started the fourth day with a steep and steady 3 hour climb to the top of a jungle hill with a giant swing and a view of Machu Picchu far in the distance. Then, we entered what sounded like the least exciting part of the whole trek and was described as more or less a walk next to the train tracks for hours on end to get to Aguas Calientes, the last town before Machu Picchu. It was actually gorgeous, and not at all like the train tracks I remember climbing around from my childhood in MN (obviously). The track started in a tiny town with one gourmet coffee shop and plenty of places to buy fruit or beer and pisco and from there passed towering jungle cliffs to follow the river. 

Train at Machu Picchu
Each day on the trek was so different from the one before. When we looked back at the map, it was crazy to see the lines we had traversed. The train still runs regularly, shuttling passengers back and forth to Machu Picchu from the Sacred Valley. Photo - Paul Corgan.

Jungle and river - Machu Picchu
Photo: Maria Ranallo.

Walking on train line - Machu Picchu
When you walk next to anything for hours on end, the scenery starts to become repetitive. Not so here, we were all pleasantly surprised at how varied the last push was. Photo: Maria Ranallo.

Day 5: Arriving to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is impressive, and 100% worth the visit. However, after witnessing the stunning variations of nature, pushing my body for hours each day, ignoring the demands of the modern world, getting to Machu Picchu was a bit depressing. Don’t get me wrong, we desperately wanted the comforts of a Pisco pitcher and a delicious pizza, but the throngs of people were less than desirable. And, while this is not an article about the faults of popular tourist destinations and the quest to make them more sustainable, it’s worth noting that many “must-see” destinations these days often feel overrun and a bit sad.

Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate which requires, you guessed it, another climb from the entrance gates. It’s worth the effort as not many people make it up that far. Photo: Maria Ranallo.

Llamas - Machu Picchu
Tori’s last photo embodies exactly what you expect Peru to be, with the alpacas (or are they llamas) basking in the sunlight not caring about the people, or the sacred site behind them. Photo: Tori Hegarty.

Person looking at Machu Picchu
Impressed by a job well done. Photo: Maria Ranallo.

If you get the chance to visit Peru... go! Without hesitation. It’s a gorgeous place full of warm, kind-hearted people, stunning variations of nature, and jaw-dropping vistas. I will be back, and soon.

Maria Ranallo

Explorer, writer, and culture champion, Maria crafts stories from her adventures around the world, focusing on the transformative power of community and culture, adventures in nature, and learning through exploration.

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PEAKS & PUEBLOS
Ethically-sourced clothing inspired by the Andes
SHOP
PEAKS & PUEBLOS
Ethically-sourced clothing inspired by the Andes
SHOP